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Empowering Culinary Traditions: Mahim Koliwada Women Bring Authentic Seafood Flavors to Mumbai’s Plaza

For 37 years, Prajakta Keni lived by the Mahim Beach, but 2023 marked a significant turning point in her life. Transitioning from a homemaker managing her household, she decided to operate a stall at the Mahim Seafood Plaza as part of the Mahila Bachat Group. Prajakta begins her day at 3 a.m. to procure fish from Sassoon Docks and dedicates up to 20 hours daily to various tasks including managing, planning recipes, cooking, selling, and cleaning, often finishing past midnight.

Prajakta expresses her satisfaction with her newfound independence. “I no longer need to ask my husband for money. I can now cover family expenses when we dine out. I also fund my daughter’s education and purchased a sofa with my initial earnings. This is an incredible feeling,” she remarked, now overseeing the Kadeshwari Mahila Bachat Gar seafood stall alongside nine other women.

Prajakta is one of 130 women operating 13 seafood stalls at Mahim Beach, which is rapidly becoming a popular destination for seafood enthusiasts from the city and beyond. The plaza, set against the stunning backdrop of the Arabian Sea and featuring views of the Bandra Worli Sea Link, offers a diverse menu showcasing Koli traditional dishes including Thalis, Curries, and Tawa Fry. The stalls boast a variety of fresh seafood, including Pomfret, Surmai, Lobster, Rawas, Bombil, Squid, Mandeli, Prawns, Gaboli, and Bangda, among others.

The initiative to establish seafood plazas managed by women’s self-help groups was first proposed by the Brihanmumbai Municipal Corporation (BMC) in 2023, with the aim of promoting local cuisine and enhancing tourism. The BMC provided essential infrastructure such as sheds, tables, chairs, and pavements before the women took charge of the operations.

Initially, the response to the initiative was lukewarm, but as word spread through social media and viral videos, business began to flourish. What began with six stalls has now expanded to a bustling plaza of 13, all operated by women. Each stall is managed by a team of at least ten women from the nearby Mahim Koliwada, with each member assigned specific duties.

For the Koli women, the business operates with remarkable efficiency. As fish catches at Mahim Beach decline, the women of Koliwada start their day at 3 a.m. to acquire the freshest seafood from Sassoon Docks. After returning to Mahim by 9 a.m., they store the catch on ice to maintain freshness, complete household tasks, and gather at the plaza by 2 p.m. They then spend three hours cleaning seafood, boiling fish eggs, and marinating fish until 5 p.m. After a brief break, they return to the plaza by 6:30 p.m. to begin cooking for sales.

By 7 p.m., the plaza buzzes with activity as it opens to customers, drawing a steady influx of visitors. Each stall serves fresh seafood to hundreds, with average weekend attendance exceeding 3,000 patrons. While many guests come to savor the seafood dishes, others purchase fresh, raw fish from the stalls operated by the self-help group.

Savitri, who previously worked as a fish vendor, added, “We all cooked for our families, but now, with our own stalls, we’ve become chefs.”

Open on Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays, the plaza attracts customers not only from Mumbai but also from distant locations such as Pune, Nashik, and Palghar. On days when the stalls are closed, the businesswomen feel restless. “We put in hard work and finish our day by 2 a.m. after cleaning and dinner. If we don’t come to the stall, we feel lost. We have gained a sense of independence,” shared Priti Clan, who works at the Sagari Mahil Bachat Gat fish stall.

Many women across the stalls share Priti’s sentiments, as the plaza has provided a new source of income amid declining fish stocks. Encouraged by the success of this initiative, the BMC plans to establish similar self-help group-operated seafood plazas in the Koliwadas of Versova and Colaba. Meanwhile, business at the Mahim Koliwada plaza remains strong as summer vacation approaches, continuing until the seasonal monsoon closure.

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