From the St. Michael’s graveyard in Ynys, Wales, the scenery was breathtaking: the unique Italianate design of Portmeirion glimmered across the river; the peaks of Snowdonia rose majestically in the background; and the tidal island of Ynys Gifftan nestled within the wide flow of the River Dwyryd. A local passerby remarked, “No one has lived there for years, but it’s just been listed for sale – £350,000, if you’re interested.”
Although I was intrigued, my limited finances did not allow for such an indulgence. This region, often referred to as Wales’s “armpit” due to its geographical positioning in Gwynedd, where estuaries merge into Cardigan Bay before wrapping around the Llŷn Peninsula, appeared to be a stunning location to explore.
I had ventured here believing it would offer excellent opportunities for coastal exploration by train and on foot. The Cambrian Line, which begins in Shrewsbury, travels westward to the bay before veering north along the coast of Gwynedd. This route runs parallel to the Wales Coast Path and will soon be augmented by the Cadfan Way, a 128-mile pilgrimage trail set to launch in 2024. This path traces the journey of St. Cadfan from his church in Tywyn to the ruins of the monastery he established on Ynys Enlli (Bardsey Island), located at the northern tip of the Llŷn Peninsula.
My journey commenced in Machynlleth, a charming market town by the River Dyfi, where the Cambrian Line begins to feel the influence of the sea. This town boasts an impressive selection of independent shops and one of the finest restaurants in the country. However, instead of indulging in Gwen’s extravagant 20-course meal priced at £295, I opted for delicious provisions from the Royal House deli, which were both tasty and reasonably priced. Afterward, I boarded the train.
As the train moved forward, the landscape became increasingly lush. The mouth of the Dyfi opened up into vibrant mudflats, salt marshes, and sandbanks favored by birds. The train traversed the area between the Dyfi Osprey Project’s observation point and the nests being monitored. The waterway widened until, at the picturesque village of Aberdyfi, the train finally reached the coast, occasionally running so close to the shore that the boundary between land and sea seemed to vanish.
Our journey continued northward, passing through towns such as Tywyn, the initiation point for St. Cadfan’s pilgrimages, and small stops like Tonfanau, which was once home to a World War II army base, now reduced to sheep-grazed ruins. Like many stops along the Cambrian Line, Tonfanau is a request stop; passengers waiting on the platform must signal the train.
At Harlech, no such requests were needed as the train was naturally halted by the sight of Harlech Castle. This formidable structure, commissioned by Edward I, began construction in 1282 and took seven years to complete, still standing boldly today. I disembarked here, ascended to the castle, and entered effortlessly through a modern floating bridge; in its heyday, intruders would have confronted concentric walls, portcullises, and a “killing zone” designed for defense. The gloomy weather added to the atmosphere, though it obscured the views. I climbed the dark stone staircases and walked along the battlements, enjoying the solitude save for a few hooded jackdaws, which sent a chill down my spine.
I spent the night at the Y Branwen hotel, located beneath the castle’s shadow. The following day, I departed Harlech on foot, greeted by bright sunshine replacing the previous murkiness. My path led me north along the coast, though the rugged Rhinogs behind the village beckoned. “There’s nobody in those hills,” David Penny, the hotel owner, informed me. Nonetheless, I adhered to my original plan and was not disappointed. As I rounded Harlech Point, I was greeted by stunning views down the Dwyryd, soon passing the isolated St. Michael’s and my dream island.
Continuing along the Cadfan Way, I hiked from Ynys to St. Tecwyn’s, an even more secluded church, seemingly serving no congregation from its elevated position above the estuary. It was here that poet and priest Jim Cotter was inspired to establish the Small Pilgrim Places network. He described St. Tecwyn’s as “one of the most extraordinary places in the whole of Wales,” a sentiment I found hard to dispute.
Yet, across the Dwyryd estuary, Portmeirion also made a compelling case. This whimsical resort village, a creative vision of Sir Clough Williams-Ellis, is celebrating its centennial this year and continues to enchant visitors with its vibrant colors, playful perspectives, and eclectic architectural elements. I visited the Prisoner Shop, which features memorabilia from the cult television series filmed here in the 1960s. Curious about its current popularity, I asked a clerk, who confirmed that it remains well-loved, even among younger audiences who watch it on YouTube. “Its themes of surveillance and freedom feel particularly relevant today,” she noted.
I stayed at Castell Deudraeth in Portmeirion, a Gothic mansion offering spacious rooms, a fine dining experience, and The Prisoner playing on channel 801. However, the highlight was my pre-dawn stroll into the village, where I witnessed the sun rising over the hills, illuminating the campanile and bathing the hot-pink camellias in golden light.
Porthmadog station was a short walk away, through the woods and across the mile-long cob that spans the Glaslyn estuary, with the peaks of Eryri overseeing the route. From this point, I alternated between train travel and walking to reach Pwllheli, the final destination of the Cambrian Line.
This wasn’t always the case; a horse-drawn tramway built in the 1890s by businessman Solomon Andrews once extended further west to his estate in Llanbedrog. Andrews transformed the Victorian mansion, Plas Glyn-y-Weddw, into an art gallery, offering combined tram and gallery tickets for a shilling. Now, 130 years later, I paid nothing at all. The old tramway is now part of the Wales Coast Path, providing an easy four-mile stroll along the bay, while entry to Plas Glyn-y-Weddw is free. Rescued from decline in the 1980s, this gallery, one of the oldest in Wales, showcases works by Welsh artists and features a modern cafe serving delectable cakes, nestled next to the historic house like a giant silver sea urchin.
After enjoying a scone at the gallery, I continued my leisurely exploration…
