On the bustling Dr Annie Besant Road and the crowded Worli Naka, a white wall is often obscured by buses, ambulances, and construction barriers from the nearby BDD redevelopment project. Above the entrance, Japanese characters are engraved on a stone plaque, mostly concealed by tree branches and electrical wires.
Beyond the gate lies the Nipponzan Myohoji Buddhist Temple, a Japanese monastery with a history in Mumbai dating back to the 1930s.
As visitors stroll through the grounds, the sounds of traffic gradually diminish, replaced by rhythmic drumming emanating from the main hall. Inside, wooden floors and hanging lanterns create a serene atmosphere, while old murals adorn the ceiling. Here, 72-year-old Dilip Adagre, the temple’s caretaker who resides in staff quarters behind the shrine, reads a Marathi newspaper from a wooden chair. Despite its long-standing presence, Adagre notes that many passersby do not recognize the building as a Japanese monastery. “People walk by every day without realizing it’s here. Only when they step inside do they discover its connection to Japan,” Adagre remarked.
The monastery was established by followers of Nichidatsu Fujii, a Japanese monk and the founder of the Nipponzan Myohoji order, who arrived in India in 1931 and formed close ties with Mahatma Gandhi and various anti-war initiatives. The current structure in Worli was inaugurated in 1956, with financial support from industrialist Jugal Kishore Birla and the Birla family trust, which continues to assist in its upkeep.
Within the prayer hall, photographs of Gandhi, Dr. B.R. Ambedkar, Fujii, and members of the Birla family decorate one wall, alongside painted panels illustrating scenes from Buddha’s life. At the center of the hall, a marble statue of Buddha, placed during the temple’s construction over seventy years ago, commands attention.
“When I first arrived in Bombay from my village, I was unaware of this place,” Adagre, a retired municipal worker, recalled. “I began visiting the temple every day after my shifts at the BMC. Once I retired, I gradually became involved in the monastery’s daily activities. Over time, this place became integral to my life.”
For several decades, the temple has thrived under the guidance of Bhikshu Terutsugu Morita San, a Japanese monk who came to India in the 1970s and eventually settled in Worli. Residents close to the monastery note that Morita has fostered strong connections with families in the surrounding chawls and neighborhoods over the years. During the Mumbai riots of 1992-1993, Morita and temple supporters traversed parts of the city, beating drums and advocating for peace.
While local residents frequent the monastery, Adagre mentioned that it also attracts Japanese visitors who come to Mumbai for business, leisure, or as part of Buddhist groups from abroad. “Some individuals return every year,” he noted. “Some contribute funds for repairs, others bring gifts from Japan, and some simply sit quietly before departing.”
Over the course of nearly five decades, Morita has observed the neighborhood transition from a predominantly mill district and working-class area to one of Mumbai’s rapidly evolving redevelopment zones. “When I first arrived, the entire area was markedly different,” Morita stated. “There were mills, smaller buildings, and significantly more open space surrounding the temple.”
Today, cranes and redevelopment towers dominate the skyline near the BDD chawls, with construction equipment operating into the evening outside the temple’s boundary walls.
Like the surrounding area, the temple recently underwent restoration, including repainting the exterior, repairing sections of the boundary, and cleaning older murals over the past few months. “The work has been ongoing for about three months,” Adagre explained. “The previous paint had completely faded. Now, everything is gradually being restored from top to bottom.”
Unlike many historic buildings in South Mumbai that have become tourist attractions or commercial establishments, the Worli monastery continues to serve as a neighborhood landmark, inviting both devotees and residents seeking a moment of tranquility or prayer.
Every evening, as sunset approaches, the sound of drums resonates throughout the main hall, drawing local residents into the compound after a long workday, even as traffic continues to build along the busy road. “So much has changed around Worli,” Adagre remarked, gazing at the redevelopment towers visible beyond the wall. “Yet every evening, people still come here after work, sit for a while, and then quietly leave. That routine has remained unchanged.”
Naresh S is a Trainee Correspondent for The Indian Express, based in Mumbai. A graduate of Xavier’s Institute of Communication (XIC), he has a keen interest in civic issues and policy matters. Currently, he reports on the transport sector, focusing on suburban railways, BEST bus services, and aviation, with an emphasis on in-depth analysis and research-driven reporting.
Core Coverage Areas: Naresh covers urban mobility and public systems in Mumbai, concentrating on transport infrastructure, commuter safety, and policy implementation. His reporting is grounded in research and data, aimed at elucidating the functioning or failures of large public systems for everyday commuters.
Transport (Primary Beat): His primary focus is on transport, covering Mumbai’s suburban railways and BEST bus services. His reporting includes detailed accounts of significant events, such as the Mumbra train accident and its safety implications, as well as follow-up stories on persistent issues like the delayed introduction of automatic doors on local trains. He also monitors infrastructure projects, operational disruptions, and policy decisions impacting daily commuters, often through explanatory articles.
Aviation (Secondary Beat): In addition, Naresh reports on aviation and airport issues, focusing on developments in Mumbai’s air travel sector.
