Does a higher price tag on a T-shirt ensure it is made ethically? Insights from experts in the fashion industry indicate that the answer is no. Investigators of fashion supply chains and labor practices agree that spending more does not guarantee a more ethical product.
According to Gordon Renouf, co-founder of Good on You, which evaluates 7,000 brands based on their policies regarding worker and animal treatment as well as sustainability, “Our assessments show that price does not serve as a reliable measure of ethical production.” He notes that numerous luxury brands charge exorbitant prices without providing evidence that the additional costs benefit workers or the environment.
Dr. Eleanor Scott, a fashion design lecturer at the University of Leeds, adds that higher prices can stem from various factors such as branding, marketing, and retailer margins rather than necessarily indicating superior labor or environmental standards.
Research conducted by the university in conjunction with the Waste Resource Action Programme revealed that price does not correlate with the durability of items, a crucial aspect when considering sustainability. Among the top 10 T-shirts tested, six were priced under £15 and outperformed several costlier options, including one priced at £395.
However, experts caution against opting for the cheapest T-shirt without consideration. While high prices do not guarantee ethical production, very low prices can signal potential issues. Renouf explains, “While a higher price does not ensure ethical practices, a very low price is often a significant warning sign.”
Ellie Gaffney, a senior engagement manager at the Better Cotton Initiative, elaborates on this point, stating that there is a threshold below which it becomes difficult to produce goods ethically when accounting for raw material and production costs as well as fair wages throughout the supply chain. However, she refrains from specifying an exact price, noting that factors like a retailer’s buying power can influence costs. “If a price seems too good to be true, it likely is,” she warns.
Renouf notes that although his platform does not establish a specific minimum price, their evaluations consistently reveal that low-cost fast fashion typically falls short on labor and environmental standards. He asserts that a T-shirt priced at £3 or £5 cannot provide living wages or responsibly sourced materials.
Nevertheless, there are budget-friendly brands making positive impacts on workers and the environment. For instance, Yes Friends, a UK brand rated “great” by Good on You, offers basic unisex T-shirts starting at £12, with higher-priced options available. “They manage competitive pricing through larger production volumes, lower margins, and direct-to-consumer sales,” Renouf explains.
While this example indicates that ethical production can coexist with affordable pricing when a business model supports it, Renouf emphasizes the challenges faced by brands striving for sustainability and ethics.
Other UK brands receiving high ratings from Good on You include Rapanui, with T-shirts starting at £18; Brothers We Stand at £20; THTC at £30; and Not Basics at £29.99. Renouf points out that while these prices are significantly lower than luxury brands, they exceed many high street competitors. “T-shirts produced with a focus on ethical and sustainable practices tend to be pricier as they reflect the true cost of fashion,” he asserts.
Emma Nicholas, a researcher at the Good Shopping Guide, conducted an analysis for this article, comparing ethical ratings of various companies. She found instances where highly rated brands offered T-shirts for equal or lower prices than those with lesser ratings.
In her comparisons of activewear brands like Sweaty Betty, Tala, and Lululemon, she noted that all three had similar price points starting at £30-£35. However, Tala scored 88 out of 100 on the guide, while Lululemon, with a top T-shirt priced at £98, scored only 36, and Sweaty Betty scored 34. A spokesperson for Sweaty Betty claimed the company adheres to high standards in its supply chain and disputed the report’s accuracy, while Lululemon did not respond to requests for comment.
Alex Crumbie, a researcher at Ethical Consumer, suggests that purchasing certified organic cotton provides assurances about the treatment of its producers. “Organic is beneficial for both the environment and the workers involved in production, as organic certification mandates the upholding of basic workers’ rights,” he explains. However, he notes that while organic standards are part of the solution, they do not encompass the entire supply chain and do not guarantee that all workers’ rights have been respected.
An effective way to ensure your spending has a positive impact at any price level is to buy secondhand, according to Crumbie. “Purchasing secondhand is an excellent option as it does not contribute to the demand for new, potentially unethical clothing, and it is generally more affordable,” he concludes.
