As powerful cinematic music reminiscent of Hans Zimmer envelops the atmosphere, I feel the vibrations resonate within me. Two vibrant turquoise macaws glide perilously close to my head, joining a majestic assembly of around 250 birds, including hawks, kites, pelicans, and an owl, that dance around a striking wooden circle. Below, peacocks bustle along a makeshift river, their movements animated by two performers narrating the intricate bond between humans and nature. The sky darkens with ominous grey clouds, hinting at impending rain as we embark on an open-air performance in the northeast of England. I am attending a preview of Kynren: the Storied Lands, the latest ambitious initiative in the market town of Bishop Auckland, located just 12 miles south of Durham.
Having grown up near Bishop Auckland, a town once renowned for its coal mining and railway heritage, I reflect on its transformation. When I last visited in 2003, the high street was filled with discount shops, and if someone had told my teenage self that it would evolve into a celebration of art, history, and culture, I would have dismissed the notion with a scoff—likely while adjusting the volume on my MP3 player to my favorite nu-metal tracks.
This remarkable revitalization can largely be credited to one couple. In 2012, investment banker Jonathan Ruffer intervened to save Francisco de Zurbarán’s famous painting series, Jacob and His Twelve Sons, from being sold off when Auckland Palace was put on the market. In need of a venue to display the artwork, he purchased the palace itself. Rather than following the path of previous owners who would have kept the treasures private, Ruffer and his wife, Jane, established a charity and opened the palace and its exquisite gardens to the public, thus initiating a comprehensive renovation of Bishop Auckland.
The palace is a stunning example of grand Gothic architecture, dating back to the late 12th century. Inside St. Peter’s chapel, the impressive stone archways and a beautifully painted wooden ceiling transport visitors to the medieval era. Lifesized Zurbarán paintings adorn the dining room walls, while a steady stream of visitors explores the meticulously preserved rooms, guided by dedicated volunteers.
“We currently employ 201 staff members,” shares Harry Sinclair, the public relations officer for the Ruffers’ Auckland Project, as he leads us through the estate. “Approximately 80% of our employees come from within a 10-mile radius, which means we are actively contributing to the local economy. Our goal is to rejuvenate the town through culture and heritage.”
Following the acquisition of the palace, the initiative expanded significantly, evolving into the Auckland Project—a charitable organization focused on revitalizing Bishop Auckland. In addition to managing the palace and gardens, the project has established two art galleries and a lookout tower, while also preserving a local heritage railway and a Roman fort.
The galleries—one showcasing mining art from County Durham and the other celebrating Spanish art from its golden age—are far from the dilapidated local museums of my childhood school excursions. Instead, they present sleek, modern spaces adorned with deep black walls, featuring works by renowned artists such as El Greco and Velázquez. As the drizzle lightly dampens my skin, I am reminded of the striking viewing tower that looms over the center, resembling the skeleton of a grand cathedral, a sight I never imagined I would witness in Bishop Auckland. “All in all, we refer to it as a slightly bonkers day out,” Sinclair remarks.
Sinclair elaborates on a new 59-bedroom hotel being constructed in the marketplace, which is expected to boost foot traffic and encourage visitors to linger in the town center, with projections estimating 1.5 million visitors annually by 2029. This development could generate up to 95 new jobs. Furthermore, there is already a row of self-catering cottages adjacent to Auckland Palace and boutique accommodations available at the Park Head Hotel.
However, the most ambitious undertaking is undoubtedly the spectacular Kynren project. In 2013, the Ruffers acquired Flatts Farm, approximately 100 hectares (250 acres) outside of Bishop Auckland, and since 2016, they have hosted a breathtaking night show that narrates 2,000 years of English history to audiences of up to 8,000 people. More than 1,000 local volunteers contribute to this grand production, which features horseback cavalry, sword fighting, functioning steam locomotives, and boats traversing an artificial lake, culminating in a breathtaking fireworks display.
Next week, Kynren: the Storied Lands will open its doors during the day for the first time, transforming into a live-show theme park. The arena, where I catch a preview of the new Lost Feather show, is truly impressive. Massive wooden branches are stacked in a circular formation, creating a nest so realistic that it seems an eagle chick the size of a bus could appear at any moment. During the performance, birds emerge from concealed doors above the audience and soar overhead, guided by handlers dressed in medieval costumes.
Of course, not everything goes smoothly. One kestrel makes an unexpected flight into the nearby woods, while a tawny owl refuses to perform, its large yellow eyes fixed on an audience that delights in its antics. Each little hiccup adds to the charm of the event. “That’s the essence of live performance,” states Anna Warnecke, CEO of Kynren. “There’s an exhilarating sense of adrenaline that simply cannot be replicated by watching something on a screen.” She is right; by the conclusion of the show, we collectively hold our breath, and there is a wave of heartfelt applause and laughter when the kestrel returns from the forest to its handler’s waiting arm.
The Lost Feather is one of six live shows being staged throughout the day until mid-September. The other five performances are hosted in equally elaborate venues. The Legend of the Wear, a retelling of the local Lambton Worm myth, features live-action water stunts on a lakeside stage. Meanwhile, at Land of the Vikings, visitors stroll through a functioning village, interacting with actors amid the sounds of metal clanging from the forge, before distant drumming heralds the start of the show in a boat-like arena. Anticipate impressive beards, the clashing of shields and axes, flames, and plenty of Viking roars.
“Our vision was to establish a destination for visitors,” Anna explains. “People are unlikely to travel a long distance for a single 90-minute show like Kynren, so the daytime performances provide ample reason for them to stay all day.” Without a doubt, there is now a wealth of attractions to explore in Bishop Auckland.
