This autumn’s London Fashion Week (LFW) is set to feature a lineup of renowned brands, including Burberry and Alexander McQueen. However, a surprising entry has emerged: Marks & Spencer (M&S) is making its debut among luxury fashion labels.
In celebration of its centennial in the fashion sector, the British high-street retailer will host a catwalk show in September, showcasing its latest collections for both men and women.
Stuart Machin, M&S’s chief executive, expressed that participating in LFW provides a unique platform to “showcase our designs on fashion’s global stage.” This initiative is part of a broader strategy aimed at repositioning the retailer as a prime destination for fashion-conscious high-street consumers.
Laura Weir, chief executive of the British Fashion Council, praised M&S as “one of the great icons of the British high street,” noting the retailer’s significant contribution to the country’s retail and cultural narrative over the years.
The inaugural catwalk presentation from M&S will be streamed live, allowing home viewers to watch the event. Unlike many luxury brands that delay the availability of their showcased items, M&S plans to make its collections available for purchase immediately, both online and in select stores.
Catherine Shuttleworth, a retail consultant and CEO of Savvy Marketing, commented that M&S’s decision to participate in LFW reflects “a confidence around its fashion credentials.”
During the company’s recent annual meeting in London, Machin remarked on M&S’s successful transformation, which he referred to as having “dumped the frump.” This statement echoes sentiments from 2016 when former CEO Steve Rowe characterized the brand as having a reputation for being outdated.
Since taking over in 2022, Machin has been focused on revitalizing the business by appealing to a younger, fashion-savvy demographic.
Maddy Evans, who heads the womenswear division and joined M&S in 2019, has played an essential role in this transformation. The strategy includes introducing trend-driven monthly product releases that attract customers seeking fresh styles, as well as items that gain traction on social media. Popular offerings such as barrel-leg jeans, mesh jelly shoes, and lightweight funnel neck jackets have successfully shifted M&S’s customer base from primarily over 55 to younger shoppers in their 20s and early 30s.
This shift represents a significant departure for a retailer once predominantly recognized for basics. M&S’s affordable interpretations of luxury trends have resonated on social platforms, with TikTok videos featuring “rate my M&S haul” and “unbox my M&S order” garnering impressive view counts. Current trending products include kitten-heeled flip-flops reminiscent of those worn by Hailey Bieber, flowy lace tops similar to Chloé designs, and striped knitted dresses inspired by Missoni.
In response to the recent Love Story trend, M&S quickly launched a collection inspired by the 1990s style icon Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy, which featured a classic loose white shirt and a black slip dress.
Earlier this summer, M&S introduced its seasonal collection through a fashion show in Ibiza, hosted by Amelia Dimoldenberg, which featured a transparent catwalk built over a large swimming pool. More recently, the brand showcased another collection at Silverstone’s pit lane, with models walking in front of F1 garages just before the British Grand Prix.
These events align with M&S’s strategy to enhance brand perception through high-profile celebrity endorsements, including Gillian Anderson and Claudia Winkleman, successful collaborations with actress Sienna Miller and designer Bella Freud, and the inclusion of other brands like the ethically minded Nobody’s Child and wedding guest favorite Ghost London. Retail expert Elizabeth Stiles noted that these efforts have significantly improved the overall perception of the company.
M&S currently holds a market share of just over 10% in national clothing sales and serves 12 million female customers. This achievement is particularly notable considering the retailer’s previous struggles, including its exit from the FTSE 100 in 2019, its return four years later, and a severe cyber-attack in 2025 that disrupted online shopping for months and significantly impacted profits.
The company’s debut at London Fashion Week follows Topshop’s historic participation as the first high-street brand to show on schedule in 2005. Additionally, Cos is scheduled to present at the upcoming New York Fashion Week, while H&M, another of Cos’s sister brands, opened LFW last September with a show featuring models from Vogue.
Despite the focus on attracting younger consumers, some shareholders have raised concerns that this strategy might alienate M&S’s traditional customer base. During the annual meeting, Machin mentioned that he had received feedback from a customer who expressed dissatisfaction with the increasing prevalence of sleeveless and shorter dresses. In response, future collections, including those featured in September’s show, will incorporate designs that offer more coverage.
