For a fun diversion, consider playing a game I like to call “Purr or Roar?” The objective is to identify whether a particular cat species is capable of purring or roaring, noting that these sounds stem from distinct anatomical features. Some species, like lions and tigers, are well-known for their roars, while common house cats, such as tabbies, are not. Yet, between these majestic big cats and our household pets lie many other species, like lynxes and panthers, whose vocal capabilities are less obvious. For instance, leopards can roar or growl, while the elusive snow leopard, which lives in mountainous regions, is known to purr.
The snow leopard is the central figure in Kulbhushansingh Suryawanshi’s debut book, which offers an insightful and personal exploration of this secretive mountain predator. An Indian conservationist and mountaineer, Suryawanshi tracks the snow leopard through the rugged terrains of the Himalayas and the Gobi desert. His work presents a vivid and nuanced portrayal of a frequently misunderstood and endangered species that is facing challenges in an increasingly crowded and warming world.
Raised in Aurangabad, situated in the Deccan Peninsula and far from the snow leopard’s natural habitat, Suryawanshi was inspired to pursue a career in ecology after encountering George Schaller’s book, The Year of the Gorilla, in a local library. He expresses his respect for notable conservationists, explorers, and mountaineers such as Schaller, Reinhold Messner, and the British adventurer Francis Younghusband. However, he also emphasizes his identity as an Indian author focusing on the ecological issues of his own country. While his narrative centers on snow leopards, it also raises questions about who has the authority to narrate the tales of nonhuman life surrounding us.
Interestingly, despite its name, the snow leopard shares few similarities with the common leopard; its closest relative is actually the tiger. Adapted to thrive in the harsh climates of the highest mountain ranges, stretching from India to Russia, the snow leopard possesses an extraordinarily bushy tail that serves multiple purposes, including warmth and balance, as well as large paws that function like snowshoes. While it may not have a powerful bite, it compensates with exceptional agility and cunning, being able to chase prey down steep cliffs and drive animals into deep snow. Suryawanshi highlights how challenging it is to spot these cats, noting that their coat, which features an ochre hue with irregular rosettes, camouflages them effectively against rocky terrains, leading him to suggest they might be better termed “rock leopards.”
Having read extensively about snow leopards, primarily from authors seeking an idealized version of these animals, I find Suryawanshi’s narrative refreshingly different. His account, which resembles a conservationist’s journal, strips away romantic notions to reveal the hard reality of tracking and monitoring snow leopards in remote areas, often far from his family. He describes the labor of trudging through snow, setting up camera traps, and negotiating with local herders, portraying snow leopards as integral components of their ecosystem, eliciting both affection and animosity from local communities.
Suryawanshi points out that while snow leopards generally prefer hunting wild animals, they often target livestock, which leads to conflicts with local herders. One herder in the Spiti Valley recounted casually shooting a snow leopard after it attacked his goats and discarding the body in a river. This perspective portrays the snow leopard not as a venerated creature but rather as a potential nuisance, akin to the European fox. Conversely, some community members have expressed their affection for the species; for instance, a village in Kibber once cared for a sick snow leopard, naming it Rancho after a character from a Bollywood film.
A significant portion of Suryawanshi’s efforts is dedicated to addressing the tensions between snow leopards and local inhabitants. He helps design livestock enclosures to protect animals from hungry snow leopards and proposes compensation plans for herders who lose livestock. Notably, he observes that women, who typically manage the livestock, often harbor more hostility toward snow leopards, as they do not benefit from compensation initiatives. One local woman even quipped, “Why don’t you marry one of your snow leopards?”
The book also delves into the contentious decision made by the International Union for Conservation of Nature in 2017 to downgrade the snow leopard’s status from “endangered” to “vulnerable.” Suryawanshi and his colleagues at the Snow Leopard Trust vehemently opposed this move, asserting that it stemmed from flawed scientific assessments and the political agendas of large Western NGOs. He argues that underlying racial power dynamics and colonial legacies influenced conservation and research decisions. Currently, the snow leopard remains classified as vulnerable.
Suryawanshi’s work critiques the narratives surrounding the snow leopard, aiming to reclaim the story from literary and metropolitan authors. At one point, he retraces the steps of Peter Matthiessen in Nepal, although he seems less invested in the romanticized adventure. Throughout his journey, he observes the impact of mass tourism and learns about plans by Nepal’s wealthiest individual, who owns an instant noodle business, to construct a resort in a remote village to attract tourists looking to spot snow leopards. This leads him to question whether Matthiessen ever considered the repercussions of mythologizing the snow leopard.
While it may be excessive to hold Matthiessen accountable for the challenges snow leopards face, similar to how Melville should not be blamed for the decline of sperm whales, Suryawanshi emphasizes the importance of storytelling. The narratives we create about these animals hold significant weight in shaping perceptions and conservation efforts.
