When I first began exploring vintage shops, I mistakenly believed that if an item wasn’t my size, it was simply not meant for me. I would often purchase stunning oversized shirts that ultimately went unworn. I struggled with trousers that were three sizes too large, cinching them with a belt, which never achieved a flattering look. Now, I’ve come to realize that a belt should be viewed as an accessory to enhance an outfit rather than a tool to hold clothing up. This shift in perspective comes from my newfound appreciation for the art of tailoring.
Many people view tailoring as something unattainable, but in reality, a local dry cleaner can often make simple adjustments, such as taking in a waist or shortening hems, for around £30. Consider how much you would be willing to invest in a pair of perfectly fitting trousers.
I started my tailoring journey with a few beloved items in my closet that had gone unworn. I recommend you do the same if you’re new to this process. You already appreciate these pieces, and having already paid for them provides a strong incentive to make them work for you.
The first item I took in was a pair of trousers that had been sitting unworn for years. At the dry cleaner’s, they measured me and had me try on the trousers. All that was needed was to shorten the hem. This is a common issue for me due to my long legs, as many trousers tend to bunch around my ankles. In the Outer Hebrides, we jokingly say it looks like your cat has passed away when trousers are worn at half-mast. Fortunately, vintage clothing often features generous hems, and after the dry cleaner pinned the waist and adjusted the fit around my backside, I had a transformed pair of trousers just two days later for £20.
Tailoring doesn’t merely result in clothing that fits; it creates pieces tailored specifically to your body shape. Who among us truly conforms to standard high-street sizes?
In the 1980s and 1990s, alterations were far more commonplace. People frequently utilized sewing machines, and modifying garments was the norm. If we lack the skills to alter our own clothing, we should embrace the idea of entrusting this task to professionals. Therefore, it’s wise to check hems, waistbands, and seams for extra fabric. A quick look inside a garment can reveal whether it has already been altered. I had another pair of trousers where four inches of fabric had been previously adjusted, so I took them for tailoring again and ended up with another perfect fit.
I consistently have my shirts tailored when I need something more polished to wear beneath a suit, as they can easily be taken in at the sides. I also appreciate cropped jackets. One of my favorite alterations involved transforming a suit jacket into a bolero-style piece that rests just above the hip. Tailoring is not only about achieving a better fit; it allows for the creation of entirely new styles. I once had a jumpsuit almost completely reconstructed, requiring the removal of the zipper, torso adjustments, and shortening—it cost £80, but the investment was well worth it.
Throughout this journey, I’ve learned a few key lessons. I no longer attempt to use safety pins before going in; I prefer to have a professional measure me. It’s important to find someone you can trust, as they will become familiar with your style and body shape. It’s a personal process, and I now visit my tailor monthly. I also advise against cropping your own clothes with wonderweb; I made that mistake with a lovely jacket. While it held together for a wedding I attended, my dry cleaner was shocked by my attempt to “web it” and quickly removed it, replacing it with a proper alteration.
While I am mindful of sustainability and strive to make eco-friendly choices, I’m not here to preach about tailoring vintage clothing from a high horse. The responsibility for improvement lies primarily with larger corporations, not individual consumers. My aim is to encourage people to recognize that vintage shops offer a wider variety of choices than they may realize.
Styling: Sam Deaman. Styling assistant: Charlotte Gornall. Trousers, £30, Beyond Retro. Polo, £160, Mithridate. Necklace, £230, and ring, £215, both by Serge Denimes. Trainers, £150, Onitsuka Tiger.
