What is the most effective method for preserving late-summer produce? Jess, via email.
There is an abundance of fruit available, and one creative way to preserve it is by fermenting it in honey, according to Rachel de Thample, author of The Fermentation Year, which was released in September. “Currently, I’m looking at a jar filled with blackberries, but whole plums would also be delightful,” she explains, especially when paired with blue cheese—or really any type of cheese—as well as meat or fish. The syrup can even serve as a substitute for maple syrup or cordial. De Thample recommends filling sterilized jars with fruit and adding enough honey to completely cover it. “If the fruit has low acidity, include a spoonful of lemon juice or a splash of cider vinegar,” she adds. Once sealed, the jars should sit for a few weeks. “It will develop a fizzy quality, but it won’t reach an explosive level due to the high sugar concentration. This mixture can be stored at room temperature for up to a year, though I typically transfer it to the refrigerator after a few weeks.”
Another great method to prolong the enjoyment of summer fruits is making kimchi. “In Korea, apples and pears are commonly used, but there are variations for every season and region,” de Thample shares. She suggests a British twist using zucchini, blackcurrants, and strawberries, adding that tomatoes can also be incorporated into the paste. For those with plums and damsons, she recommends a technique inspired by Japanese umeboshi: “This method uses a significant amount of salt—around 15% per 100 grams of fruit. Layer the salt and fruit in jars, and if the mixture is particularly dry, add water; otherwise, simply crush a few plums to release their juices and form a brine with the salt.” This brine can be utilized similarly to a fruity soy sauce, making it a valuable addition to the pantry. De Thample notes, “Having a few jars stored away always gives me a sense of accomplishment.” Moreover, damsons can be transformed into flavored liquors, as highlighted by Kenji Morimoto, a regular contributor to the Guardian and author of Ferment. “This is an excellent way to preserve their flavor; all you need is vodka, the fruit, and rock or granulated sugar.”
Morimoto also suggests a Korean method known as cheong for further extending the life of summer produce. “The concept is straightforward: use equal parts sugar and fruit, then let it sit while stirring occasionally. This will result in either candied fruit or a delicious syrup,” he explains. This syrup is versatile, perfect for glazing tarts, drizzling over ice cream, or enhancing cakes and cocktails, and it can add a sweet balance to savory dishes such as stews.
Additionally, Morimoto proposes creating lacto-fermented cherry tomatoes to inject some “effervescence and briny tang” into winter meals. These can be chopped up for use in grain bowls, salsas, pastas, and other savory sauces. Few summer vegetables aren’t ideal for pickling, although he encourages Jess to prioritize courgettes in a classic sweet vinegar brine. “In many respects, courgettes are superior for pickling compared to cucumbers, as they maintain their crunch,” Morimoto states. To prepare them, simply slice, salt, drain, and then add the brine. “You can experiment with various flavor profiles: mustard seeds, fennel seeds, and celery seeds; soy sauce, ginger, and garlic; or dill and allspice.”
Whichever preservation method you choose will surely keep you well-prepared come autumn.
Do you have a culinary question? Reach out at feast@theguardian.com.
