A thick mist envelops the valley as I transport my camping supplies down a gentle slope towards a clearing bordered by trees and undergrowth. At the edge of this space, a picnic bench faces the reason for my visit: one of the remaining patches of temperate rainforest in the UK. I am setting up my tent at Wray Valley Camping, a low-impact site situated on the eastern fringe of Dartmoor, nestled between Lustleigh and Moretonhampstead, where I will spend five days on one of the site’s “nearly wild” pitches.
Temperate rainforests, also referred to as Atlantic woodlands, thrive in areas with a unique blend of high humidity, ample rainfall, and consistently mild coastal temperatures, all moderated by the nearby sea. Historically, these forests stretched from the western Highlands of Scotland down to Cornwall, covering around 20% of the UK and hosting numerous rare lichens and plant species. However, over 95% of this rainforest has been lost, making Devon’s persistent dampness and its Atlantic exposure a vital refuge for this endangered habitat.
Michelle Grist and her partner Kevin Chamberlain, the owners of Wray Valley Camping, have dedicated seven years to restoring this delicate ecosystem while simultaneously developing the campsite next door. “We always aimed to operate a sustainable campsite here,” Michelle, a former environmental consultant, notes, acknowledging that neither she nor Kevin, a member of the Dartmoor search and rescue Ashburton team, had prior experience in running a campsite. “We didn’t take over an existing site; we built it from the ground up,” she explains. Their years of camping experience, both domestically and internationally, informed their vision of what they wanted. Kevin emphasizes that the valley’s natural features guided their decisions from the outset—only tents are allowed, with no vehicles permitted on-site.
The initial phase of their project progressed slowly: Kevin constructed a compost toilet by hand, which was followed by the addition of a shower block and other amenities. Alongside these developments, they undertook the challenging task of reviving the temperate rainforest. “It was quite a struggle to access the land,” Michelle recalls. “While the upland drains had been cleared, our land was completely flooded.” Together with various organizations, Michelle and Kevin worked to rejuvenate the woodland by planting 1,200 native species, creating 200 meters of new hedgerow, and introducing 45 native saplings, while also eradicating invasive plants.
The culmination of their efforts came this February when six acres of their 4-hectare (10-acre) estate were designated as a Devon County Wildlife Site (CWS), acknowledging its significance as one of Dartmoor’s fragile remnants of temperate rainforest and wet woodland. The campsite offers a rare chance for guests to sleep next to this unique ecosystem, with four designated “Nearly Wild” camping pitches available.
A short, marked sustainability trail meanders through the campsite and adjacent woodland, detailing the restoration initiatives undertaken. While walking along the path, I catch sight of a pied flycatcher among the oaks, hazels, rowans, and willows, while stonechats converse nearby and an oil beetle crawls across a mossy stone in search of sustenance.
In the background, the sound of bike gears and children’s laughter can be heard from the Wray Valley Trail. This 7-mile (11 km) walking and cycling path runs alongside the temperate rainforest, following the route once taken by the Moretonhampstead and South Devon Railway steam train. Currently, it connects the historic villages of Moretonhampstead and Lustleigh, extending further to Bovey Tracey.
As I stroll along the remnants of the old railway, I envision the iron trains that once traversed the valley, filling the air with steam and soot. Where the piercing whistle of the train once signaled the arrival of timber and quarried stone, now it has been replaced by the delicate call of the treecreeper—a small reflection of how rapidly this area has healed since industrial activities nearly devastated it in the 19th century.
The Wray Valley Trail serves as a low-impact entry point for exploring eastern Dartmoor, making it worthwhile to plan several days of activities around it. From the Wray Valley campsite, it is an easy bike ride or walk to Lustleigh and onwards to Hound Tor, where towering granite boulders overlook the crumbling walls of medieval settlements. Well-marked paths from this location weave through Dartmoor’s scattered prehistoric monuments and weathered waycrosses.
Just a 40-minute drive away lies Dartmoor’s most renowned temperate rainforest, Wistman’s Wood, which serves as a cautionary tale about the consequences of increased visitor traffic: eroded paths, damaged mosses, and trampled roots that the area was never designed to withstand. Despite conservation efforts aimed at doubling the size of the woodland, it remains under strain due to its popularity.
Restoring the woodland is only one part of Michelle and Kevin’s mission; the more challenging aspect involves ensuring that visiting guests contribute to the preservation of the landscape rather than adding to its burdens. Their strategy is straightforward: maintain low visitor numbers and consciously limit their environmental impact, even if this means forgoing some modern camping comforts. There are no electric hookups, vehicles are parked away from the camping area, and guests use wheelbarrows to transport their belongings to their pitches. Kevin acknowledges that this arrangement can be controversial but believes the extra effort helps attract those who genuinely appreciate the environment: “If you’re asking people to exert a little more effort to help protect this area, it usually draws in those who value it.”
This philosophy permeates the entire carbon-negative site, utilizing borehole water, solar energy, and offering discounts to guests who arrive on foot, by bicycle, or via public transport. The result is an experience that feels as close to wild camping as possible, complete with the luxury of a hot shower.
Both Michelle and Kevin express their surprise at the eagerness displayed by their camping guests. A horticulturist recently assisted in cataloging the various plant species, while scout groups have engaged in woodland management activities.
