“This carriage is due for an upgrade. Don’t miss your chance to embrace the 90s German aesthetic,” proclaims a sign on the entrance of the dining carriage. Inside, a couple is fully engaged in capturing countless selfies in the bright pink-and-turquoise interior, reminiscent of a hospital dining area, which is infused with the aromas of cinnamon rolls and robust coffee.
I am aboard Snälltåget’s distinctive red train, operating on the Swedish rail company’s new line connecting Malmö to Oslo. This 6.5-hour journey winds through Sweden’s scenic western corridor. Previously, traveling between these two cities required lengthy bus rides and multiple train changes. The introduction of this direct service simplifies the process and is cost-effective, with fares starting at £11 each way. Since its launch this summer, the train has already transported over 25,000 passengers.
My fascination with Scandinavian train travel began a decade ago during a trip from Stockholm to Gothenburg, where I enjoyed a cozy cabin adorned in dark wood while a pianist performed in the dining car. This time, starting in Malmö, I plan to explore several stops along the beautiful western coastline.
Malmö, located just across the Øresund Bridge from Copenhagen, is often overshadowed by Stockholm. The southern port city has a rawer charm compared to the capital, and its residents exhibit a more open and inquisitive demeanor. Within an hour of my arrival, I am invited for drinks by friendly locals—a level of hospitality I rarely experienced in Stockholm. With nearly half of its population under the age of 35 and 187 nationalities represented, Malmö thrives as a hub of creativity. The Form/Design Center, set in a former 16th-century grain store, serves as a gathering place and exhibition venue for design and architecture enthusiasts. Additionally, the city boasts modern art galleries such as Moderna Museet and Malmö Konsthall.
In the trendy Möllevången neighborhood, commonly known as Möllan, the vibe is that of a creative enclave, with many residents resembling art students or recent visitors from Berlin. My friend Rob, a Malmö resident for nearly ten years, leads me through Folkets Park, or “People’s Park,” highlighting his favorite pizza spot, Far i Hatten, located in charming wooden huts. We settle at Ava for a beer in a leafy square filled with trendy restaurants and organic wine bars, reminiscent of London Fields in Hackney. Although tempted to continue our laid-back bar crawl, we opt for a nightcap at Bar Bobo before calling it a night.
Snälltåget runs one direct train to Oslo daily, departing at 6:38 a.m. from Malmö Central Station (plans are underway to increase this frequency next year), making for an early start amidst a bustling station filled with families and travelers with oversized backpacks. We soon pass the striking towers of Lund Cathedral, then journey through vast, flat agricultural lands before skirting Apelviken Bay, known for its sandy beaches that attract kitesurfers and surfers.
Varberg resembles a quaint British coastal market town, adorned with bunting, cobbled streets, cozy cafes, and a weekend market where vendors sell fresh produce, marmalade, leather goods, and socks. The town is also famous for its spa facilities, which drew my interest. I was particularly intrigued by the picturesque Kallbadhuset, a cold bathhouse perched on wooden stilts above the Kattegat Sea. For approximately £8, visitors can access segregated saunas that offer stunning sea views. A refreshing dip in the brisk water proves to be the perfect remedy for an early start following a late-night bottle of red wine. As I float on my back, I notice a group of Swedish veterans seated on a wooden bench, unashamedly enjoying the nude bathing experience, framed by the bathhouse’s mustard-colored walls in a scene reminiscent of a Hockney painting.
A sign outside Skarpe Nord, a community-driven women’s bathing area nearby, indicates that nude bathing in Varberg has been a tradition for over a century. Strolling along the promenade, I encounter several designated nude bathing spots, set against a backdrop of rocky cliffs that evoke a mythical atmosphere. However, with the persistent gray skies, my hotel’s spa beckons more invitingly.
Hidden within Hotell Gästis is a replica of a bathhouse favored by Vladimir Lenin. The hotel’s owner, Lasse Diding, created this spa as a tribute to his idol, inspired by a visit to the original establishment in St. Petersburg during the 1980s. The somewhat eerie space is adorned with over 75,000 cobalt tiles and features candlelit busts of communist leaders.
Diding’s fascination with the communist movement was sparked by the Vietnam War and has remained with him. He is responsible for several politically left-leaning monuments in Varberg, including a large Palestine flag, Hotell Havanna (celebrating revolutionary Cuba), and a statue of Danuta Danielsson, who became a symbol of resistance after confronting a neo-Nazi march in Växjö in 1985.
The following morning, I board the fast train to Gothenburg, just a 39-minute journey away. After checking into Hotel Pigalle, a stylish establishment with a French boudoir theme located a short walk from Central Station, I set out to explore. Strolling along Kungsgatan, the city’s main shopping street, I make my way towards Magasingatan, where vintage shops (Ragtime, Pop, and Humana) and craft stores like Customwood, which specializes in custom wooden furniture, abound.
I take a break for a fika at Da Matteo, a café housed in a converted barn that spans three levels. The Scandi-industrial decor is striking, reminiscent of a design magazine spread, and the atmosphere is a perfect blend of comfort and style.
