During the Tang dynasty, spanning from the seventh to the early tenth century, Vikings were actively raiding the coasts of what is now Europe. In the British archipelago, various Anglo-Saxon kingdoms were rising and falling. Meanwhile, the Maya civilization in Mesoamerica, which had thrived for three millennia, was beginning to decline. In contrast, China, unified for nine centuries, was experiencing the cultural zenith of the Tang dynasty.
The Tang dynasty marked an extraordinary era of cultural and social advancement. Notable achievements included breakthroughs in science and medicine, the creation of exquisite poetry, enchanting paintings, and sophisticated women’s fashion beyond the imperial courts. The period also saw remarkable developments in ceramics and pottery, the invention of gunpowder and printing, and a rich culinary tradition along with innovative urban planning. It was a truly cosmopolitan empire, engaging in vibrant diplomatic exchanges with neighboring states.
Reflecting on this period evokes a sense of duty within me to share insights about the Tang dynasty. This era starkly contrasts with the often-represented notion of a closed and insular China, a narrative perpetuated in the West. Instead, the Tang dynasty was a melting pot of cultures and ideas, thriving as the eastern hub of the Silk Road, which extended to the Byzantine Empire.
But why focus on the Tang dynasty? And why share my perspective? My narrative is deeply personal and lacks any claims of objectivity. It stems from a heartfelt reconnection with my heritage, spurred by a longing to revisit China after a significant absence. My last visit was a decade ago with my then-infant daughter, Moon. Now that she is 11, our journey back to my cultural roots felt essential, both for her understanding and for my own.
Our adventure commenced in Xi’an, the historic capital of the Tang dynasty. We arrived via a high-speed train from Beijing on a scorching July day, greeted by the oppressive heat and bustling traffic as we disembarked.
In search of an authentic experience, I had reserved a hotel with traditional charm. Upon arrival, we navigated through a group of businessmen clad in black suits, their faces flushed from alcohol as they conversed loudly, punctuated by coughing fits. The smell of their cigarettes permeated the lobby, despite the “no smoking” signs prominently displayed. Their banter, primarily in the Shanxi dialect, revolved around food and women, a familiar scene reflective of the recent economic boom in China. Yet, the presence of women seemed limited to the hotel staff, who efficiently handled our check-in.
Our room was filled with the lingering odor of smoke, prompting us to venture outside immediately. We hopped into an air-conditioned taxi, eager to explore the city’s renowned sites.
After an hour, we arrived at the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda, where Moon found refuge under a pomegranate tree, enjoying an ice lolly while her hair clung to her forehead in the heat. The relentless sound of cicadas filled the air, and a haze shimmered over the pagoda as sweat dripped into my eyes.
Xi’an is widely recognized as one of China’s oldest cities, often compared to Rome or Athens. Over more than 2,000 years, it has served as the capital for multiple dynasties, originally known as Chang’an. The remnants of the Tang dynasty are evident everywhere. The Giant Wild Goose Pagoda, built in the early Tang period, has undergone multiple restorations, the most recent following an earthquake in the 16th century. Constructed from brick and wood, the pagoda features intricate sculptures and carvings, though we were unable to enter due to its fragility amidst the throngs of tourists.
Moon, raised in England, was unaccustomed to the intense heat and large crowds. I worried about her comfort as we traversed the park, seeking shade from the stifling sun.
Once outside, we took a moment to rest against the ancient city walls, which stretch 14 kilometers, primarily constructed during the Ming dynasty in the 14th century, though the original structure dates back to the Tang era. Xi’an serves as a cultural palimpsest, layered with diverse histories, in stark contrast to Rome or Athens, which boast original ruins. In China, the legacy of the past is often recreated or replaced, as government policies do not allow for remnants of decay under a communist regime.
As we explored a local market filled with fresh produce, we sampled stir-fried potato strips seasoned with vinegar and chili.
“What’s this, Mum?” Moon asked, poking at a plate of white vegetables with her chopsticks.
“Those are lotus root slices. Give them a try!”
This journey sparked reflections on my relationship with China and how to share that history with my daughter. I contemplated the significance of our vast heritage and how to convey its importance to her. Moon identifies as English or British; her primary language is English, despite my attempts to immerse her in my native tongue. My efforts have yielded only modest results, as she understands my Chinese but does not fully connect with it on a deeper level. In England, after school, she…
