A month after the announcement that a proposed exhibition featuring fashion designer John Galliano at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York would not take place, his inaugural collection for the fast-fashion retailer Zara has debuted.
Titled Re{form}, the collection is described in a press release as “authored by the couturier John Galliano. Built from our memory. Made for now.”
The collection’s launch follows significant backlash regarding plans to honor Galliano, the former Dior designer who was convicted of a hate crime in 2011 after making a series of racist and antisemitic remarks. The intended exhibition at the Met, which would have coincided with a major gala event, faced intense scrutiny and was ultimately canceled. If it had proceeded, it would have marked only the third time a living designer received such recognition, following Yves Saint Laurent in 1983 and Rei Kawakubo in 2017.
Opposition to the exhibition was strong and widespread, involving Met patrons, local politicians in New York, and various prominent Jewish leaders. Dana Thomas, Galliano’s biographer, criticized the decision in the New York Times, calling it a “terrible idea” and asserting that honoring someone convicted of antisemitism at this time is “downright bizarre.” She emphasized that Galliano’s history of antisemitic statements was not an isolated incident.
Conversely, support for Galliano persists within some segments of the fashion industry, including figures close to Anna Wintour. Supporters argue that he has done enough to atone for his past actions, noting that it has been 15 years since his controversial remarks, a period during which many believe forgiveness should be considered.
In a statement regarding his withdrawal from the exhibition, Galliano expressed, “I remain fully accountable for the pain caused by my words in the past, particularly the hurt I caused to the Jewish and Asian communities, and I remain deeply sorry for it.”
Amidst this complex backdrop, Zara’s decision to move forward with the collection raises questions. Orsola de Castro, a designer and author, believes this collaboration represents “the coup of their career, their life, their brand.” Fashion critic Philippe Pourhashemi concurs, stating that securing Galliano’s involvement is a significant achievement for Zara, noting that it seems counterintuitive for someone with his background to collaborate with a brand like Zara.
From a practical perspective, the collection, photographed by renowned fashion photographer Steven Meisel, has been in development for years and involved substantial investment. Following the cancellation of the Met exhibition, some considered it unlikely for Zara to follow through, yet excitement was palpable, evidenced by enthusiastic crowds outside the Zara store on Bond Street during the collection’s unveiling.
Galliano has continued to work in fashion since his dismissal from Dior in 2011. He returned to the industry in 2013 with a brief tenure at Oscar de la Renta and served as creative director for Maison Margiela for a decade, culminating in a highly celebrated final show in 2024. His designs remain influential, with his work even appearing on the Met Gala red carpet, such as the chainmail gown worn by Kim Kardashian in 2024.
While the Metropolitan Museum of Art and fast-fashion brands like Zara operate in vastly different realms, Zara, owned by Inditex—the world’s largest fashion retailer—has faced criticism for its labor practices. Pourhashemi notes that Zara has adeptly worked to improve its public image, and Galliano’s collaboration is part of that strategy.
According to fashion expert and historian Tony Glenville, the decision to collaborate with Galliano likely stemmed from a purely commercial perspective, emphasizing that the industry often prioritizes business opportunities over ethical considerations.
Zara aims to enhance its reputation with this collection, which is priced between £17.99 and £699, and is marketed as a dialogue between Galliano and Zara’s archives. The garments will be crafted from new materials rather than existing stock, signaling a shift towards affordable luxury as it competes with brands like Shein and Primark. Pourhashemi suggests it is crucial for Zara to differentiate itself from its budget line, Lefties, which recently launched in Liverpool. Glenville adds that Inditex appears to be positioning Zara as a more elevated brand while relegating lower-priced offerings to Lefties.
For Zara, the collaboration may be more about enhancing its image than generating significant sales. Glenville remarks that such designer partnerships often serve as marketing hooks, with many items from these collaborations never reaching store shelves. Galliano is renowned for his extravagant, theatrical designs rather than practical wear. His new collection draws inspiration from characters in his famous 1984 graduate show, Les Incroyables, which celebrated the rebellious figures of post-revolutionary France. Galliano has asserted that he does not intend to simplify his designs for a broader market.
Galliano has entered into a two-year contract with Zara, which mitigates risks for the brand. Glenville points out that if Galliano produces a few collections annually in limited quantities, Zara can enjoy the prestige of his name without substantial risk. Should the collaboration prove highly successful, there may be opportunities for extension in the future.
