Fans of classic British cuisine were dismayed to learn that Gentleman’s Relish, a beloved condiment, is being phased out by its manufacturer. However, Jeremy King, the proprietor of the recently reopened Simpson’s in the Strand, has directed his culinary team to craft a similar version of this distinctive anchovy-based spread for the historic restaurant.
King, who has previously operated renowned venues such as the Ivy, the Wolseley, and Le Caprice, shared with the Guardian, “We actually produce our own version due to the challenges in sourcing it, which allows us to keep serving it.”
Simpson’s, known for its classic offerings like spotted dick and roast beef served from a silver trolley, features the relish on toast priced at £6.50.
The condiment was initially developed by John Osborn, an English grocer in Paris, and was a favorite of James Bond author Ian Fleming. This mix of anchovy fillets, rusk, butter, and a secret blend of herbs and spices made its debut in 1828, coinciding with the opening of Simpson’s.
At 71, King noted, “My chef discovered and modified a traditional Victorian recipe for patum peperium, its original name. It resembles the commercially produced varieties, but I must say, I prefer ours.”
The name patum peperium is a playful mock-Latin term that translates to pepper pâté.
According to King, the relish was already a popular item on Simpson’s menu prior to its temporary closure during the pandemic, with some patrons reportedly ordering it “with tears in their eyes.”
King expressed a desire to offer the relish as a takeaway option but lamented, “Unfortunately, we cannot do so as it would necessitate various health and safety regulations regarding packaging and labeling.”
Fortnum & Mason has also announced that it will continue to produce its own version of the relish. Retailing at £14.95, this variation is presented in a stylish Tiffany blue jar and, as described by the London grocer, features “an entire armada of anchovy, complemented by dill, garlic, and aromatic Sarawak pepper.”
In response to the discontinuation, celebrity chef Nigella Lawson, who once listed the relish among her top ten indispensable foods, remarked, “I adore Gentleman’s Relish on generously buttered toast. I consider it the savory equivalent of cinnamon toast, offering just as much comfort, particularly on white sliced bread.”
Lawson added that she would resort to making her own version, stating, “As long as I have access to anchovies and butter, I am content.”
AB World Foods, the company behind the spread, issued a statement explaining, “While we acknowledge that this Victorian relish has a dedicated and niche following, it unfortunately lacks broader commercial viability. Despite our best efforts, retailer distribution has diminished.”
