It is difficult to overlook the striking pink sequined codpiece designed by Leigh Bowery, one of the many eye-catching artifacts displayed within the cabinet of curiosities at V&A East, the newly established museum located in London’s Olympic Park. The concept of innovative tailoring serves as the foundation for this building, which radiates a distinct haute couture essence. The architectural firm O’Donnell + Tuomey, based in Dublin, drew inspiration from a sleeve depicted in a Vermeer painting housed in the National Gallery of Ireland. John Tuomey explains, “I aimed to engage with the folds, which became the initial concept for the structure. I began to reflect on the fabric that envelops the body, the shelter it provides, and the space in between.”
Influences of draping and concealment were also prompted by the works of Spanish fashion designer Cristóbal Balenciaga, who was featured in a 2017 retrospective at the V&A. This exhibition showcased ethereal X-ray images that revealed intricate details such as boning, hoops, and dress weights, which are essential in determining the drape and silhouette of garments.
Tuomey likens the design of V&A East to a protective outer garment, akin to futuristic apparel. “We created hollow spaces so that when the public views the exterior shape, they can sense the interior form before entering,” he notes.
The public is greeted by a circular pavilion, elegantly folded and faceted like a massive origami piece or a sharply designed circus tent. Tuomey remarks that it appears to beckon visitors to enter through its openings. The structure, resembling a tent or jacket, is constructed from substantial precast concrete panels in a warm honey hue. “We aimed for a coloration that strayed from the typical industrial grey concrete,” he adds. “We wanted it to feel as though it emerged from the earth.” Each precast panel was meticulously crafted to precise specifications and then assembled on-site, resembling a 3D puzzle, supported by a steel framework reminiscent of Balenciaga’s foundational boning.
The area around the Lower Lea Valley, stretching between Stratford and Hackney Wick, has undergone a transformation akin to a circus—vibrant, colorful, and somewhat flamboyant—after years as an industrial landscape often described as gloomy and surreal. The 2012 Olympics infused it with a sense of revitalization.
This urban renewal is underpinned by the concept of “Olympicopolis,” a cultural hub inspired by Albertopolis, which honors Queen Victoria’s consort and his role in the Great Exhibition of 1851. The original Albertopolis, the world’s first cultural district, included several institutions around South Kensington, such as the V&A, initially established by Henry Cole as the Museum of Manufactures, focusing on applied arts.
As the V&A expands eastward, it joins notable institutions like the BBC, London College of Fashion, and Sadler’s Wells (also designed by O’Donnell + Tuomey), all positioned along a waterfront site, each serving as a distinctive architectural statement. Further afield, a new campus for University College London and the V&A’s East Storehouse—a vast space resembling an aircraft hangar that houses half a million artifacts—opened last year to widespread acclaim. Collectively referred to as the East Bank, this new cultural and educational nexus seeks to invigorate the local community and shift the cultural epicenter of London eastward, mirroring the South Bank’s postwar venues for art, theatre, and music.
“Once you step inside, you should feel as though the entire building is at your fingertips,” Tuomey states. The five-story structure serves as a dynamic space for activity and interaction, featuring gallery areas that adapt to showcase a variety of displays. Its main staircase, designed with a dramatic twist reminiscent of German expressionist sets, provides a space for socializing, while the rooftop terrace offers expansive views of London, melding old and new.
“I envision visitors looking down from the terrace and seeing the square below,” Tuomey expresses. “They might visualize a dual perspective of themselves, both on the terrace and in the square, as they mentally trace their journey.” Along the way, visitors can catch glimpses of neighboring East Bank institutions, the large Westfield shopping center, and the broader Olympic Park, fostering a connection with the changing environment.
V&A East aims to democratize and illuminate its historical collections, revisiting the essence of Henry Cole’s Museum of Manufactures for a modern audience. Two permanent galleries titled Why We Make will present contemporary and challenging views of the museum’s extensive collections, creating unexpected pairings of artists and disciplines that ignite new conversations.
Leigh Bowery’s pink sequined codpiece is part of a dazzling “his and hers” outfit he collaborated on with corset-maker Mr. Pearl for the 1987 ballet Because We Must, choreographed by Michael Clark. These vibrant costumes are complemented by an informal video of the ballet, contextualizing the artifacts and capturing the vibrant and rebellious spirit of the 1980s, a pre-digital era where everything was crafted by hand. Bowery, who passed away in 1994 after dazzling London’s underground scene, likely never imagined his codpiece would find a home in a museum.
