The video that ignited the conversation was quite unassuming: a young woman in her twenties shared her ideal weekend in north London on TikTok. Her recommendations included local favorites such as Jolene and Gail’s bakeries, as well as the De Beauvoir Deli.
The response from the community, however, was quite surprising. Numerous residents expressed their unfamiliarity with the businesses she highlighted. One local, Moses Combe, aged 21, voiced his disbelief in a video that gained significant traction. “If this is where all the north London girls come in the morning, I’d be a bit surprised,” he remarked.
This prompted Combe to embark on a personal exploration of these venues to uncover the hype, starting with a visit to Jolene. He indulged in a hot chocolate, a sausage roll, and his first-ever tiramisu cake, which he described as “bloody lovely.”
Thus began a series of videos dubbed the “Endz Department for Research,” where Combe reviews upscale cafés he typically wouldn’t frequent in his neighborhood. A crowdfunding initiative aimed at supporting this series and “investigating the changes in our own backyards” has successfully raised £2,566 out of a £3,000 goal.
Combe’s total bill at Jolene was £14.20, which he noted was “not quite Greggs,” but he appreciated the sausage roll. “They did not skimp on the sausage, bro,” he admitted. “That, I put my hands up, is pretty decent.”
Combe is not alone in this endeavor. Kobi Coker, a 27-year-old comedian and educator, mentioned that his exploration of so-called “gentrified” areas was initially unintentional. He began noticing new, upscale venues opening along his route to work and decided to document his experiences trying them out.
Coker, who runs a comedy night called Unruly Comedy, has reviewed various establishments, including Dusty Knuckle bakery, Jolene, Gail’s, and Pret. In one humorous review, he playfully addressed his pronunciation of “pain au chocolat,” stating, “Allow me please. I’m not French, I’m from Hackney.”
His visit to Dusty Knuckle cost him £17.30, which he humorously announced to his followers with a sound effect of glass breaking. He praised their egg and bacon hot cross buns as “absolutely sensational… I can’t think of many better sandwiches I’ve had in my life.” He encouraged his audience to visit, noting the positive impact the business has on at-risk youth in the community.
Regarding gentrification, Coker expressed mixed feelings. “On one hand, I think it’s great that we’re seeing new ideas and people come in,” he stated. However, he also acknowledged that “the people who contributed to the community’s identity may not be able to engage with it anymore.”
Matthew Roberts, operations manager at Jolene, welcomed the newfound attention their bakeries have received. “It’s all very positive. It’s really nice for people to be discussing us,” he said, adding with good humor, “Even if we don’t necessarily measure up to Greggs in everyone’s opinion.”
Roberts noted that discussions surrounding gentrification can diminish the value of businesses that operate on different scales. The Dusty Knuckle functions as a social enterprise with two locations, while Jolene is an independent bakery and restaurant that has expanded to four sites across London. Both face competition from national chains with hundreds of locations, such as Gail’s, Pret, and even Greggs.
Harry Davies from De Beauvoir Deli mentioned that the recent attention has not led to a noticeable increase in customers, although he found the videos entertaining.
He criticized the comparisons of their sandwich prices to supermarket meal deals as unfair. “We take great pride in our sustainability, using quality ingredients and ensuring fair wages,” he explained. “We’re a London living wage employer, and we use free-range meat in our sandwiches.”
Davies emphasized that the deli has always drawn a diverse clientele. “People assume it’s filled with residents of £3 million houses, but that’s not the reality,” he remarked. “Everyone appreciates good food.”
For Daniel Poon, a 27-year-old content creator, the trend of locals reviewing establishments they wouldn’t typically visit is also about exploring new options.
Occasionally, he reviews mainstream chains that release viral products inspired by other cuisines. In one instance, he critiqued Pret’s ube drink, stating it lacked authenticity compared to the original Filipino flavor. He pointed out that chains often “try to make it very western,” adjusting products for their primary customer base rather than the communities they draw inspiration from, though he appreciates their efforts to diversify.
