Burro, a fresh Italian dining establishment located in Covent Garden, London, has been on my radar for some time, even prior to its official opening. This anticipation stems from chef-owner Conor Gadd’s impressive track record. His first venture, Trullo in Islington, has consistently ranked among my top restaurant recommendations for nearly 15 years. I frequently mention it to acquaintances seeking suggestions for special occasions, whether it’s a birthday celebration, a proposal, or impressing a client. For anyone looking for a great spot to satisfy a food enthusiast, my go-to advice is always: “Have you tried Trullo? Be sure to order the beef shin ragu and pair it with a nice red wine. They’ve been doing this for years and truly excel at it.”
While dining trends have fluctuated—such as the rise of no-reservation policies and casual seating arrangements—Trullo has remained a solid, upscale restaurant. Now, Gadd is infusing some of that authentic experience into Burro, positioned in a more tourist-centric area of London, specifically a short walk from Covent Garden tube station, tucked away in a quaint courtyard leading to Floral Street. The menu at Burro, while echoing its predecessor, leans towards a more refined yet hearty approach. For instance, the chicken liver pâté, served generously on thick bruschetta, could easily take center stage as a main course, complemented by a crisp, refreshing white wine or a classic negroni, as chosen by my dining companion, Charles.
Another standout dish among the antipasti was the fried artichoke paired with bottarga, which presented a delightful combination of chunky, lightly battered artichoke reminiscent of calamari, infused with a salty essence. The freshly baked focaccia was a treat as well—glossy, crisp, and moist, it was a pleasure to enjoy. Burro’s menu begins with bold offerings, transitioning through primi like tagliarini with clams and strozzapreti with pork and chili, ultimately leading to substantial secondi. Here, diners can relish a whole lemon sole in prosecco sauce or a lavish vitello al burro, a breadcrumbed veal dish rich with garlic. The braised beef shin served over polenta is an epitome of comfort food, with the polenta lavishly enveloped in butter and the beef tender enough to be considered nursery fare.
Burro strikes a balance between spaciousness and tranquility, providing a serene escape amidst the bustling atmosphere filled with street performers and the occasional Guinness hat. The decor is elegantly understated, featuring a soothing palette of beige and taupe with subtle hints of ombre accents. The presence of real tablecloths adds a touch of luxury to the experience, while the knowledgeable staff—some of whom hail from Trullo—are eager to guide diners through the menu as they enjoy unique cocktails like the Donkey Kick, a mix of whisky, chartreuse, lime juice, and poitín, also known as Irish moonshine. While the introduction of moonshine in cocktails might not have been on my trend forecast for spring 2026, I trust Gadd to present it tastefully. His penchant for serving Italian dishes alongside garlic and butter-soaked Roseval potatoes is also commendable.
For me, the highlight of my meal was Burro’s fettuccine with duck and porcini ragu—a delightful twist on Trullo’s famed beef shin ragu. It stands out as one of the finest dishes currently available in this pasta-centric area. Rich, smooth, and utterly indulgent, it can be enjoyed as a sharing portion or savored as a self-indulgent treat.
The pressing question remains: does central London truly require more Italian dining options? With exceptional establishments like Locatelli at the National Gallery, Charlie Mellor’s new Osteria Vibrato, and even Jamie’s Italian making a comeback in Leicester Square, it may seem redundant.
However, when it comes to Burro, there’s always room for a creative take on tiramisu, which here is presented in the form of a doughnut. Specifically, it consists of warm ricotta dough sprinkled with sugar and crushed ladyfingers, served atop a pool of coffee cream infused with marsala. While purists may argue whether this still qualifies as tiramisu, for me, it evokes a nostalgic blend of Blackpool’s promenade doughnut stalls with the charm of zipping around Bologna on a Vespa.
Whether it is a bold move or a prudent choice to replicate Trullo’s unique essence in Covent Garden, I have come to conclude it is indeed the latter.
Burro, 2 Floral Court, Floral Street, London WC2, 020-4580 1495. Open daily, serving lunch from 12:30 PM to 3 PM and dinner from 5:30 PM to 10:30 PM (9:30 PM on Sundays). Expect to spend around £70 per person for three courses, exclusive of drinks and service.
