In 2018, a restaurant named Mustard, which showcased both French and Bengali cuisines as distinct entities linked by their common ingredient, mustard, opened its doors in Mumbai. However, the establishment closed during the pandemic, while its location in Goa remains operational. Now, Punam H. Singh, the entrepreneur behind Mustard, has launched a new venture called Portal in the Kala Ghoda neighborhood.
Portal is a bistro and bar occupying a spacious 1,200 square feet next to Otra, featuring 48 seats and operating from noon until midnight. A breakfast menu is set to debut soon, with plans to start serving as early as 8 a.m., catering to both shoppers and office workers in the bustling area.
The choice of location is a strategic one. Singh describes Kala Ghoda as an arts hub that combines a cultural center, proximity to the stock exchange, and a steady flow of visitors. The area’s popularity attracts tourists who come for heritage walks, and Singh noted the lack of establishments that serve champagne for breakfast. “Why should breakfast be mundane?” she questioned, highlighting her vision for a more vibrant morning dining experience.
With over a decade of experience in food and beverage, including a significant role at Fabindia, Singh transitioned into entrepreneurship with Mustard. Entering the hospitality scene was somewhat serendipitous for her.
Upon entering Portal, patrons are greeted with an ambiance that feels distinct from the hustle and bustle of the city. The high ceilings, elegant arches, and pillars, complemented by a lighting design that transitions from bright to warm, evoke a sense of tranquility. A hand-painted mural captures the essence of Mumbai, showcasing the art district and Marine Drive, while Singh emphasizes that the decor retains a lively spirit rather than feeling overly formal or museum-like.
The menu at Portal is described by Singh as “borderless and cuisine-agnostic.” Unlike her previous venture, where the culinary framework was more rigid, Portal allows for more creativity and spontaneity. The diverse offerings range from miso pasta and rawas to gazpacho infused with togarashi, and a rice sandwich featuring tofu or tuna served with balsamic and soy sauce alongside wasabi. “We wanted to have fun with the menu,” she explained.
Among the dishes sampled, the roasted beetroot salad stood out, artfully arranged and complemented by pickled onions and goat cheese cream. The tomato tartar, featuring various tomato types on a bed of almond cream cheese, offered a delightful burst of flavors. The big boy sando, filled with marinated paturi-style paneer, pickled beetroot, and avocado, was praised for its freshness, while accompanying sweet potato fries were a hit as well. The quality of ingredients was evident throughout the menu, enhancing the overall dining experience.
For meat enthusiasts, the menu includes options such as a roast buffalo sandwich, lamb kimchi sando, and a piccata featuring buffalo filet steak. Even the Caesar salad is presented with a chicken fillet instead of the usual shredded chicken.
Desserts are a highlight, with Singh’s rich pumpkin tart already becoming a customer favorite. The baked apple slices, reminiscent of apple pie and served with a light crème, also garnered much praise and was a recurring choice among diners.
“Portal allows guests to shape their dining experience, whether they prefer traditional comforts or modern innovations, depending on the time of day,” Singh remarked. She credits Chef Gregory Bazire for curating the menu and Chef Dhiraj Biswas for ensuring kitchen training and consistency. Just a week into operations, Portal has already seen repeat customers, indicating a positive reception.
Drinks are also a focal point at Portal. A coffee bar featuring a vinyl player serves various brews, including Karabi coffee, matcha, and fresh juices. The bar area offers a selection of cocktails, wines, and non-alcoholic beverages. The carefully curated music transitions from easy listening in the morning to jazz in the evening, with plans for jazz nights organized by Revolver Club.
Future offerings will include acai bowls and congees, which have been slightly delayed due to ongoing conflicts.
When asked about the potential for expansion, Singh humorously responded, “Don’t ask a woman who’s just delivered when she’s having the next baby. I still have sleepless nights to manage.” However, she did express her hope to eventually reintroduce Mustard to Mumbai, a prospect that many are eagerly anticipating.
Heena Khandelwal, a Special Correspondent for The Indian Express in Mumbai, covers a diverse array of topics, including relationships, gender issues, theater, and food. To connect, you can reach her at heena.khandelwal@expressindia.com.
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