As we patiently await the arrival of the beef rib trolley in the expansive Grand Divan dining area at the illustrious Simpson’s-in-the-Strand, a plethora of thoughts flood our minds regarding its charmingly eccentric atmosphere. “It has a bit of a Hogwarts vibe, doesn’t it?” I remark to my companion Hugh.
Hugh, a seasoned visitor with four previous trips under his belt, acknowledges the allure of Simpson’s, a luxurious yet conveniently located eatery just a stone’s throw from Covent Garden. The establishment boasts a sparkling cocktail bar on the upper floor and Romano’s, which offers a more continental menu. However, for the moment, our focus is on the Grand Divan. “It feels reminiscent of Samuel Pepys’ London,” Hugh observes.
“Or perhaps it’s more like a gathering of the British elite, indulging in claret and rabbit with grain mustard after a spirited fencing match at Eton,” I add as the dining hall, which has a rich history dating back to 1828, quickly fills up on this Sunday afternoon. It’s said that even Charles Dickens graced this venue at one time.
The soundproofing here is exceptional, allowing conversations to flow clearly amidst the lively atmosphere that resembles a bustling Saturday night. This venue, managed by Jeremy King, pays close attention to such details. Often, King’s new restaurants come with elaborate backstories to create a unique atmosphere, but at the Grand Divan, the menu takes center stage in narrating its own tale. It features a delightful array of classic British dishes including bubble and squeak, bacon chop, dressed Portland crab, and Gentleman’s Relish on toast.
Additionally, there are daily specials for “pies and puddings,” where Monday offers beef and ale pie, followed by ox cheek pie on Wednesday, and steak and kidney pudding on Thursday. Despite the world’s chaos, one can always count on a Friday fish pie at Simpson’s, accompanied by “vegetables of the day.” For dessert, a hearty bowl of spotted dick with custard awaits. This traditional British pudding, with its moist texture and currant-filled charm, evokes nostalgia for many, including myself, reminiscent of my childhood Sundays in the 1970s, where it was often served from a tin alongside a Nestlé Tip Top ice cream. After the popular game show Bullseye, it was a highlight of the day.
Such fond memories resurfaced during our lunch at Simpson’s, as it’s difficult not to feel sentimental about British cuisine and its quirks when dining in what resembles an ancient Oxbridge banquet hall, complete with dark wooden paneling, chandeliers, and servers in black waistcoats maneuvering trolleys laden with succulent roast beef. The beef itself is noteworthy, served rare with a generous helping of fiery horseradish from a shared bowl, alongside Yorkshire pudding, rich gravy, and a selection of roasted potatoes and root vegetables. Rest assured, you will leave satisfied.
Simpson’s demonstrates that while British cuisine may not be the most refined, it embodies a certain charm in its culinary cravings. Fancy a glass of sweet house hock to accompany your boiled ham and parsley sauce? Or a tour of the British cheese trolley, complete with chutney and fruit bread?
How does the food fare? It exceeded my expectations: entirely satisfactory, often enjoyable, and at times, truly delightful. The Grand Divan prawn cocktail, adorned with three large prawns alongside numerous smaller dressed ones in a sweet Marie Rose sauce, was visually appealing and appetizing. Although not groundbreaking, it was presented well.
I also relished my roast loin of cod, served with wilted greens and a luxurious lobster bisque sauce, which was exceptional, featuring flaky fish and a rich, glossy sauce. However, the £16.75 price tag for bubble and squeak felt a bit steep for what is essentially a small serving of fried potatoes topped with an egg, yet it was still quite enjoyable.
A mini croquembouche for two was overdone with spun sugar and lacked sufficient cream to elevate it, resulting in a rather dry and quintessentially British dessert that might leave a French patron wondering, “Qu’est-ce que c’est que ça?”
Nonetheless, there’s an undeniable charm about Simpson’s that resonated with me: its antiquity, formality, and reliability, as well as its ability to evoke a sense of occasion, even on a laid-back Sunday. It’s a restaurant I can rely on for nourishment, comfort, and care. In the realm of dining, such praise is unparalleled.
Simpson’s-in-the-Strand, 100 Strand, London WC2, 020-7836 9112. Open daily, lunch from 11:30 AM to 3 PM (5 PM on Sundays), dinner from 5 PM to 11:30 PM (10:30 PM on Sundays). Expect to spend approximately £55 per person à la carte, excluding drinks and service.
