As the younger generation in China turns away from traditional corporate careers, craft beer has emerged as a surprising emblem of economic transformation and cultural evolution.
Having grown up in China and being fluent in both Mandarin and Cantonese, I believed I had a comprehensive understanding of my homeland. Even after moving abroad and working as a journalist, I kept a close eye on the political and social dynamics within the country. I thought I knew the sentiments of my peers in Gen Z—until a memorable summer evening last year, when I sampled a lager at a craft beer pub in my native Guangdong province.
This lager, characterized by its fruity undertones and light grain finish, didn’t possess the same refreshing quality often found in Australian craft beers. What truly surprised me was its origin: Foshan, the city where I spent my formative years before heading to Australia as an international student. While I was aware of Foshan’s reputation for Kung Fu, Cantonese cuisine, and lion dances, I had no idea it was becoming a hub for craft beer.
The craft beer phenomenon began in the United States during the 1970s, with these artisanal brews distinguished by their bold flavors and high-quality ingredients, crafted through traditional brewing techniques. Typically produced by small, independent breweries, this movement emphasizes creativity and community engagement.
In contrast to Australia, where established brands like Balter, Stone and Wood, and Little Creatures have popularized craft brewing—later selling to major beverage companies—craft beer remains a relatively niche and recent development in China’s long history of alcoholic beverages. The first craft brewery in China was established in 2008 by Yan Gao in Nanjing after he returned from studying in the U.S. Since then, the industry has expanded significantly, with over 2,000 craft breweries reported by 2020. However, the higher cost of craft beer—often five times that of mass-produced varieties—has limited its availability primarily to affluent cities such as Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, and Shenzhen.
As I enjoyed my lager in Foshan, it became evident that craft brewing was flourishing in areas previously unassociated with it. This realization led me to ponder whether my understanding of China was as comprehensive as I believed.
It wasn’t merely the beer that piqued my interest; the rise of craft brewing might signify a broader shift in the cultural landscape, reflecting the evolving attitudes of China’s youth.
Located in a dimly lit corner of a two-story shopping complex in Foshan, the Good Good Beer Pub sits next to an ear-cleaning salon. Nearby, an outdoor food market offers dishes such as clay pot chicken and grilled drunken goose. Despite it being a Sunday evening at 9 PM, the area buzzed with families and workers enjoying late-night snacks.
Foshan is classified as a second-tier city within China’s four-tier urban ranking system, and it has seen an influx of middle-class residents over the past twenty years. By 2023, Foshan’s GDP ranked 17th among 700 Chinese cities.
However, there remains a significant economic disparity between first-tier cities that attract top-tier educational and professional opportunities and cities like Foshan. As a student, I often heard teachers encourage my peers and me to aim for universities in Guangzhou or even move to major cities like Shanghai and Beijing. “There’s a bigger world outside waiting for you,” one teacher often reminded us.
Fast forward thirteen years, and the landscape in China has shifted dramatically.
Tao Liang, the proprietor of Good Good Beer Pub, attributes his craft beer venture’s success to the expanding middle class in Foshan. “As a second-tier city, people here generally have the means to enjoy craft beer,” he explained.
The pub itself is cozy, featuring only five tables, a lengthy bar with multiple beer taps, and walls adorned with colorful craft beer branding. Liang’s own brand, Fusion beer, graces the bar’s display.
Liang began his craft brewing journey in 2013 while working at an Austrian engineering firm. “I had a lot of spare time to learn about craft beer,” he shared. In 2017, he left his job to immerse himself in the brewing industry, eventually launching his brewery three years later. By 2023, reports indicated that over 1,841 new craft beer establishments had opened across China within the previous year.
Notably, 79% of these new ventures were privately owned and operated, showcasing a unique trend in a nation traditionally dominated by state-run enterprises. These breweries are now found in more than 120 smaller cities, including Foshan.
Moreover, the rise of craft beer signals not only a shift in business ownership but also a reflection of the growing affluence and cultural changes in China.
Liang observed a notable trend: many young people are moving away from corporate jobs to pursue entrepreneurship. “I think many young people find corporate work limiting,” he remarked. “With low starting salaries, new graduates often consider starting their own businesses as a path to a better life.”
Mark Si, a Gen Z entrepreneur who launched his craft beer pub, Hazel, in Foshan in 2020, is a prime example of this shift. Having frequented British pubs while studying in the UK, he developed an appreciation for the distinctions between mass-produced and craft beers. After returning to China and briefly working at Disneyland in Shanghai, Si realized that he wanted to create something of his own.
