It is always gratifying to find that others share your opinions. From my first encounter with Keir Starmer, I perceived him as a pragmatic centrist with a technocratic approach, lacking sensitivity in both personal interactions and the complexities of political nuance. Even after successfully leading his party to victory in the 2024 election, I have not been surprised by his subsequent missteps and clumsiness, which have only confirmed my initial reservations. Now, it appears that a broader audience is voicing similar critiques of his leadership.
This sentiment changed during a recent family trip to China, where I discovered a connection that transcended the famed Ming vases. The so-called “Keir Starmer menu” has emerged as a culinary sensation.
While visiting Beijing, we decided to dine at Yi Zuo Yi Wang, a well-known Yunnan restaurant located in the Chaoyang district, an area frequented by embassies, media outlets, galleries, and vibrant nightlife. The name Yi Zuo Yi Wang translates to “In and Out,” which is purely coincidental.
This restaurant was notably where Starmer dined during his January visit to China, aimed at improving the historically cool Anglo-Chinese relations. Surprisingly, he made a positive impression; the Chinese appreciated his use of chopsticks, his expressions of gratitude in Mandarin, and the fact that he returned to the restaurant twice, ordering the same dishes. Most importantly, they seemed to resonate with him as someone relatable—a humble bureaucrat valuing calmness, order, and discipline.
Yunnan cuisine is rich in mushroom dishes, and a recent article in the Telegraph highlighted that some of these dishes contain hallucinogenic mushrooms. Regardless of the culinary rumors, the restaurant has been fully booked for months, and we faced challenges securing a reservation, a phenomenon attributed to what some are calling the “Starmer Dividend.” The restaurant’s decor, featuring exposed brick walls, eclectic glassware, and potted plants, exudes a nostalgic New Labour Islington vibe, attracting a clientele that includes business professionals and hipsters clad in trendy attire.
Upon being seated, we were promptly presented with the Starmer menu, translated into English. We ordered everything, although some in our group opted for mushroom margaritas instead of Yunnan white wine. The food was delightful overall, though the stewed rice with mushrooms served in a copper pot was somewhat underwhelming, reminiscent of typical takeaway fried rice. According to a local YouTuber, this dish was Starmer’s favorite.
In the spirit of exploration, we inquired with the restaurant staff about their thoughts on Starmer. Their response was simple yet telling: “He was kind, just like us.”
Starmer’s appeal seems to extend beyond Beijing’s diplomatic district. Approximately 1,300 miles away in Yunnan province, specifically in Dali, we encountered a restaurant offering the same Starmer menu in both Chinese and English, indicating its widespread allure. In Kunming, the capital of Yunnan, my son and his fiancée noticed Fuzhao Zhan restaurant promoting a “The Same Style as the Prime Minister” menu, complete with a photo of Starmer giving a thumbs-up, likely altered from a standard political photo.
While these experiences may not amount to much, they reflect a universal fascination with the exotic. That said, Starmer may find solace in the attention, as there are certainly worse places to receive admiration than China. The nation is characterized by cleanliness, efficiency, politeness, and friendliness. In Beijing, the air is filled with birdsong, thanks to the predominance of new electric vehicles.
The streets are bustling with hipsters, social media influencers, and young women dressed as characters from Tang and Ming dynasties. Over the last fifty years, more than 800 million people have been lifted out of poverty, and the country’s infrastructure and environmental initiatives may evoke envy among Britons, especially considering the degradation of public services under decades of privatization. However, it is important to note that dissent is not tolerated in China.
Adding a humorous twist, my son’s phone initially translated the Chinese characters for Starmer’s name as “British Prime Minister Star Beast.” It seems there is much for Keir to appreciate in this context.
Martin Rowson is a renowned cartoonist and author.
