This April, characterized by fluctuating weather, with both sunshine and rain competing for dominance and a brisk wind making temperatures of 16°C feel closer to 9°C, pointelle fabric has been gaining significant attention. During her recent world tour, Rosalía showcased a pointelle bodysuit on stage in Paris. Similarly, Sabrina Carpenter graced the cover of Perfect magazine, posing dramatically on a bed while clad in a pointelle underwear set and sporting striking cyan eyeshadow. This textile is increasingly visible beneath blouses and sweaters in various environments, including air-conditioned offices and public transport. For the spring season, the heritage knitwear label Herd is introducing “featherlight yet warm” jumpers made from their signature pointelle. Meanwhile, John Lewis reported a notable 60% surge in online searches for pointelle, offering items such as bandana scarves and pajamas crafted from this material.
Traditionally associated with thermal wear, girls’ vests, and intimate apparel, pointelle is defined by Merriam-Webster as “an openwork design (as in knitted fabric) typically in the shape of chevrons.” The fabric can also feature playful designs like hearts, flowers, diamonds, or zigzags. Many may recall having pointelle ankle socks adorned with delicate ruffles or remember the early 2000s trend when Whistles produced lacey pointelle camisoles that sat just above Juicy Couture track pants.
Currently, celebrities like Hailey Bieber are sporting pointelle in trendy crop tops, while brands such as Cou Cou Intimates have seen a 150% increase in sales of pointelle products year over year. Carpenter’s shoot for Perfect featured Cou Cou, styled by British fashion icon Katie Grand.
Aurora Benson, the womenswear buying manager at John Lewis, notes that “pointelle is no longer just for lounging.” She attributes its revival to a shift away from previous cottagecore and grandpacore aesthetics, highlighting its delicate, lace-like texture that evokes vintage nostalgia while also providing modern functionality.
This fabric is particularly suitable for transitional weather. Bridget Dalton, a semiotician and cultural analyst at Truth Consulting, explains that “pointelle garments create a fascinating balance between warmth and coolness,” making it intriguing to wear something inherently comforting on a sunny day. This “exposed yet cozy feeling” could serve as a counterpoint to the more rigid styles often seen.
The trend for pointelle began to gain traction when designer JW Anderson featured models in pointelle vests and knickers during his 2024 runway show, which included a striking Pepto-Bismol-pink pointelle set. More recently, at the Loewe show, American designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough unveiled V-neck pointelle dresses in vibrant colors like yellow, red, and blue.
This nostalgic aesthetic resonates strongly with consumers today. Cou Cou Intimates founder Rose Colcord remarks that this trend feels timely, as society yearns for nostalgia amidst rapid changes. She appreciates the innocent quality of pointelle, which evokes memories of childhood when individuals were less concerned with societal expectations regarding fashion.
However, pointelle also carries subversive undertones when worn by adult women. At Cou Cou, the pointelle thong has become a best-selling item, and Dalton suggests that “there’s something very provocative about basic underwear on adult bodies.” She references Kristen Stewart’s Rolling Stone cover, where she dons Y-fronts, illustrating how this juxtaposition of traditionally non-provocative underwear in a provocative context creates a compelling paradox.
Pointelle has often been chosen during heightened emotional moments, including sexual tension and heartbreak. After the release of her revenge album, Lily Allen made headlines at various red carpet events, notably wearing a black pointelle dress from the John Galliano era of Dior at the premiere of the Hunger Games stage show in London. Despite the dress’s high neckline and long sleeves, the fabric’s open design offered a glimpse of skin.
Dalton emphasizes that while conventional adult sexuality is often portrayed through restrictive materials like spandex and sequins, the soft, comfortable nature of pointelle provides a refreshing alternative. “It offers a cocoon-like feeling while still allowing for body exposure,” she explains.
For individuals seeking a blend of comfort and allure, this development is undoubtedly appealing. However, Dalton cautions that it raises a provocative question: “Has the tradwife movement infiltrated my knicker drawer?”
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