After a lengthy drive, I find myself wandering through a dense thicket of beech trees, reflecting on a moment from Kenneth Grahame’s nostalgic tale, The Wind in the Willows, where Mole becomes disoriented in the Wild Wood. “This wood seemed endless, with no beginning or end, and, most disconcertingly, no exit.”
I have traveled to South Oxfordshire to discover the landscapes that inspired Grahame. While I do not share the trepidation of his character regarding the woods, I resonate with his appreciation for this area, which balances suburban life with patches of untamed nature. It is one of those spring afternoons when the light feels almost tangible, and daffodils illuminate the edges of the muddy lanes. As the moon begins to rise and wisps of smoke curl from the chimney of a nearby cottage, I sense the stirrings of nocturnal wildlife. Yet, I am drawn to the comfort of a warm retreat. I make my way back to my lodging, Bonni B&B, located in Hill Bottom.
The B&B is operated by Koo and Denny Akers, who also run Bonni Outbuildings, a venture they launched during the pandemic. These unique cabins, featuring corrugated exteriors in hues of mint, moss, and terracotta, have found diverse uses, from artist studios to yoga spaces and even golf simulators. The option to order a fully furnished Bonni cabin has become a defining aspect of their brand. Although the B&B is situated above a stylish wooden garage on their property, it showcases the same decor and furnishings as the cabins.
Designed as a test accommodation for prospective buyers, the B&B also serves as an appealing getaway. It functions as a one-bedroom apartment, featuring an open-plan kitchen and living area, a shower room with underfloor heating, and a king-size bed beneath a round window. The walls are adorned with paneling painted in shades of clotted cream, terracotta, and powder blue. Charming touches, such as vases of white tulips and vintage finds like mirrors and stripped pine drawers, enhance the cozy atmosphere. A standout feature is the shower, accented with bottle green corrugated panels. Guests have the option to pre-order a breakfast, and I savor avocado toast topped with silky smoked salmon, a poached egg, and chili flakes while gazing out at the morning mist.
Once I finish my meal, the mist begins to dissipate, prompting me to lace up my boots for exploration. In the summer, visitors are drawn to the area to follow the footsteps of Grahame and Jerome K. Jerome, engaging in activities along the river, such as paddleboarding or renting a boat with a skipper. The region also serves as a convenient base for day trips to Oxford, Windsor, and London, all accessible in under an hour by train from Goring or Pangbourne.
Koo and Denny, both locals, generously share insights about the region. Borrowing one of their bicycles, I set off on a leisurely 10-minute ride downhill to Whitchurch-on-Thames. My first stop is the Modern Artists Gallery, where I admire the shimmering light reflecting off Alice Cescatti’s gilded artwork as owner Peggy Brodie shares stories about the nearby farmhouse that gave birth to the Womad music festival. As I veer eastward, I pass fields grazed by alpacas and observe red kites soaring above while making my way to Lin’s Veg Shed, where I can purchase fresh vegetables and salads sourced directly from local farms.
In Whitchurch, I cycle past the Greyhound pub and cross the river into Pangbourne, home to Grahame’s former residence, which remains privately owned. Although he was not residing there at the time he penned The Wind in the Willows, Pangbourne encapsulates the spirit of picnic-loving Ratty, boasting a cheese shop, bakery, and Italian deli.
After returning to Hill Bottom to drop off the bike, I continue my exploration on foot, walking several miles to Goring-on-Thames and Streatley along a scenic riverside path through the Goring Gap, where the Thames carves through chalk hills. My route intersects with the Ridgeway, Britain’s oldest road, and the landscape exudes a sense of timelessness as I pass quaint brick and flint cottages, ancient churches, a moss-covered mill, and pubs with well-worn bars.
As hunger begins to set in, I pass the riverside tables of The Swan at Streatley, the fogged-up windows of Pierreponts café, and the temptingly stocked shelves of the Goring Grocer. However, back at Bonni B&B, a pre-ordered Riverford recipe-box meal awaits me—a comforting dinner of romesco chickpeas. The smoky paprika, zesty lemon, and crumbly Mediterranean cheese beckon me, promising another evening of relaxation through the round window. I turn away from the river and retrace my steps back to Hill Bottom.
Soon, I pass the impressive Gatehampton Viaduct and arrive at the tunnel-like holloway leading to Bonni B&B. In The Wind in the Willows, Ratty tells Mole that beyond the Wild Wood lies the Wide World—a place Mole has never known and likely will not. As I enter the sunken pathway while dusk settles, I realize I feel a similar sense of contentment in this leafy corner of the Chilterns, perhaps even reluctant to venture into the broader world the following day.
The trip was hosted by Bonni Outbuildings. Rates start at £150 for a double room; breakfast kits are available for £15 per person. Riverford dinner recipe boxes begin at £15 for two. Bikes and paddleboards are available for hire at £30 per day.
